Italian Road Trip Part 5- Mountains of Como and Davos

George Clooney made it famous among Americans, but Lake Como is not a new discovery for Italians. (Clooney's house in Como is on the market for €30 million if you are interested) Justin and I were blown away by the gorgeous lake and immediately added it to our list of places we would like to retire. From our hotel in Griante we took a short ferry ride to Bellagio where we hiked around the entire peninsula before a spectacular sunset. Here are some of my favorite shots from Lake Como:

Spectacular sunset from Bellagio

J and E on the ferry 

A small port near Griante 

Bellagio at sunset 

Gazing at the Alps 

The last stop on our Italian road trip before Nussloch was in Switzerland at the famous ski town of Davos, the highest city in western Europe. Driving up the steep, mountain roads to this breathtaking town was very exciting and beautiful. It was a crystal clear day and we could see for miles. This ski and skating town is known for their pure air and houses several clinics for those with lung conditions and is also home to the annual World Economic Forum meeting. While in Davos, after indulging in Raclette, a heavy cheese dish intended to keep one warm, we went on a long, hike with extordinary views of the town and the Alps. Working up a thirst, we also headed to BierVision, the highest brewery in the world. We loved Davos and will return later this winter to ski!  Here are my favorite Davos pics:

J standing in front of a crystal clear lake on our way up to Davos

Winter wonderland!

Me enjoying a sample of BierVision's finest creations 

Postcard perfect 

Italian Road Trip Part 4- Tuscany

I've dreamed of visiting the Tuscan Hills ever since the movie about it's grandeur came out. So naturally I was very excited to check out Siena and Lucca. While visiting Siena, the rain refused to let up except when we first arrived. As we pulled up to the Castle Bigozzi Relais, a beautiful rainbow came across the hills.

Only having one rainy night in the city, we immediately headed into the walls of Old Siena which have been intact since the 13th century. Within the walls is the Piazza del Campo where the famous race track is. There horse races and bullfights date back to the 14th century. Palio de Siena is a bi-annual horse race that still takes place today and usually lasts less than three minutes.  Also within the old walls is the great Duomo which was also constructed in the 13th century.

Lucca was magnificent. The weather cooperated and we took full advantage. Like Siena, Lucca is also an ancient walled town. Here, we witnessed one the most spectacular sunsets I've ever seen. Below are some of my favorite shots from Lucca and Siena.

Lucca Sunset

Our Castle/Farmhouse in Sienna. So pretty!

Lucca's Fall colors

Lucca in the Fall

Tuscan Hills in Siena

All of our photos can be seen here.

Italian Road Trip Part 3- Florence

I admit, I often complain about Justin's job and him being gone all the time (prior to this fellowship- now he is around allll the time!), but his excessive travel and hotel point obsession really played to our advantage in Florence. When we walked into our suite at the Westin Excelsior, we quickly realized that our room was amazing.

A huge private terrace that overlooked the Duomo and the Tuscan Hills was right at our doorstep. I mean, it was crazy. Tempted by the luxury of our room and the stunning view, we contemplated sight seeing via the zoom from our camera lens, but we peeled ourselves off our lounge chairs and headed on a tour of Florence.

On our amazing balcony

Since we both had been to Florence, we were able to sidestep the must do's (i.e. Michelangelo's David, the Uffizi Gallery, etc.) and go a little off the beaten path. We headed to the Boboli Garden on a gorgeous Fall day. Overlooking Florence, the garden itself is peaceful and a nice escape from the bustling city. We also re-visited the Duomo and did a short walking tour to the Ponte Vecchio bridge. The medieval bridge was used for trading and merchandise. Today it is still a shopping bridge with jewelry stores running across it.

Overlooking Florence from the Boboli Garden

Of course my favorite thing to do in Italy is eat! And we had some amazing meals in Florence. One place we stumbled upon after the Gardens was part grocery store, part lunch room. We knew it had to be delicious as there were only locals eating there and everything was very inexpensive, hence no tourist markups. I had grilled eggplant and Justin had the most amazing lasagna we'd ever had. I'm kicking myself because I did not write down the name (I remember the location if you are interested!).

Another great place was Trottoria Sostanza. A friend recommended this institution to us and the artichoke omelet did not disappoint. Trottoria Sostanza is a tiny, nondescript restaurant that requires reservations for its two dinner seatings at 7 and 9. The seating was German-style in that tables are shared with other parties, making it slightly awkward at first. Though we did not order it, our table mates had the the steak and it looked amazing. This was a fun Florence experience!

Ponte Vecchio at night

To top it all off, we visited Grom for some of the best gelatti I've ever had. Though Grom Gelato is a chain (they even have Malibu and New York locations) it really, really good, and I'm a tough critic. Their flavors are so rich, creamy and super fresh. And their waffle cones are doubled layered for extra deliciousness.

J and E in the hotel lobby

See all of our Florence pictures here.

Italian Road Trip Part 2- Venezia

I love Venice! The canals, the ultra narrow cobblestone streets leading nowhere, the deep history that shines through in the architecture, the gondolas, Murano glass, Piazza San Marco, everything! Studying abroad nearby allowed me to really explore the majestic city years ago. It was one of the only cities I'd been to that Justin had not, so I was excited to show him what he had been missing.

J & E in St. Mark's Square

We were fortunate to have gorgeous weather on our first day and took a water taxi ride from our wonderful hotel, Gritti Palace, to the island of Murano to check out the glass. Our hotel concierge informed us that some of the glass shops will send a complimentary water taxi, give a glass blowing demonstration, allow you to shop for some glass, and then send you back on your way. We signed up sceptical that we'd be given the hard sell. But, we took advantage of this service and were really happy with our experience!

Gorgeous glass everywhere. Had to be careful where I walked!

It was very cool to see the making of some gorgeous glass art. Venetian glass dates back to the 9th century and was originally sculpted on the main island. Since the ultra hot ovens cannot be shut off at the end of the working day, worry of fire moved the art to Murano. The Venetians idolized glass makers and they were once very prominent citizens with special privileges. The skills are still passed down from generation to generation today. It is truly beautiful and a true art form, and we hope to one day own some amazing Venetian glass of our own!

We're on a boat! 

Our second day was spent taking in some culture and getting lost. We visited the modern Peggy Guggenheim Collection and Ca' Pesaro. Ca' Pesaro boasts the largest collection of Asian artifacts in Europe and the Guggenheim Collection's setting is spectacular. Both museums were really impressive. It was also a perfect day or roaming (despite the rain). And we spent hours getting lost eating gelato in the historic city.

The second night our hotel informed us that a strong front from Africa was moving in and that the lobby would be flooded the following day. All the antique furniture was moved out and catwalk stilts were put into place. The elevator was shut off from entering the first floor and the hotel staff slapped on their rain boots. I figured after all my visits to Venice, it was only fitting that on my last day there I would witness an infamous flood.

Gondolas fill the busy canals

However, luckily for us and for the sinking city, the water did not come in as high as expected- at least not while we were there. I find it so hard to believe that such a gorgeous city is on the brink of literally getting buried under water. Hopefully the solutions they are putting into place are a success and we can all enjoy Venice for many years to come.

See our photos from Venice and Paderno del Grappa here.

Italian Road Trip Part 1- Paderno del Grappa

My parents and I celebrated my 16th birthday at Epcot Center "in Italy" (I cannot remember WHY we were at Disney World past the 2nd grade, but whatever!) and when I blew out the candles on my delicious chocolate torte, I wished to spend my 21st birthday actually in Italy. Apparently birthday wishes can come true, even if you share what was wished for- my mom constantly reminds me of this one. I spent the big 2-1 at the infamous Pizzeria in Paderno del Grappa, Italy, taking shots of what else- grappa. "PDG" is the place where my love affair with the country started.

Six years later and the Pizzeria still stands. I never knew the actual name of the restaurant...  Al Sole, eh??

Heading to the base of the Dolomite Mountains in Italy, which are part of the Alps, from the flat lands of Kansas for a semester proved to be one of the best decisions I made in college. Not knowing a soul when I arrived, I met some of my best friends today on that journey. The Italian semester also enhanced and jump started my obsession of seeing the world. Six years later I returned back to the PDG with Justin to check out my old stomping grounds.

Eating a Tabbachi sandwich at 9am in front of campus. 

It was as if time stood still in the Veneto region. Literally nothing had changed. The Pizzeria was still there despite rumors it burned down (no idea who started that one), the same tabacchi owners still prepare the best turkey and asiago sandwiches for a mere €2, and the "Hotel Bar" still has processco on tap for €1,5 a pop. It was crazy to see how everything stayed the same while my life had completely changed over the course of time. Though, it is refreshing to see that some things never change, and a reminder that can be a very good thing!

When in Roma...

Technically speaking I am 0% Italian, however I like to believe I am at least 75%. My love for Italy blossomed after studying abroad my Junior year of college in the small, yet lovable town of Paderno del Grappa. After that semester, I had not had the opportunity to set foot back onto my love's soil - until this weekend in Roma.

Sistine Chapel illegal photo (sans flash, though)

My first Roman visit was quite different than this one. My friend Angela and I attended Pope John Paul's II  Easter Mass in 2004. It turned out to be the Pope's second to last Easter Mass. The Vatican and Rome had incredibly tight security detail because the train bombing in Madrid has just occurred, and most of the major sights were closed for the weekend. Despite the security issues and though I am not Catholic, I found the mass incredible and was excited to be an arms distance from the Pope Mobile.

This time around Rome was different. We met up with my parents on the last leg of their European vacation and accomplished a lot of sight seeing. We stayed at the Best Western Universo near the Termini train station. I still haven't decided if our hotel was in a good location or not, but never figured out where a good location would have been. Rome is pretty spread out, so I guess it depends on the sights on your must see list.

The Colosseum next to a nearly full moon 

My dad dragged my mom on a four hour, intensive tour of the Colosseum before Justin and I arrived (thankfully!!), so Justin and I didn't actually see the interior. Friday night, after we arrived, we set out to find a friend's restaurant recommendation only to discover that most restaurants were closed for the Italian Ferragosto. Sadly, the food on this trip was not as amazing as it should have been (otherwise this entire post would focus around cuisine), though I definitely had my fair share or tasty Italian carbs! I guess Justin will just have to take me back later this year!

Saturday we spent the morning touring the Vatican. There is so much to see in the Vatican museum that it would take you 12 years if you spent one minute viewing each artifact; seriously. Needless to say we had to keep pushing my dad along (who was determined to find the Menorah and sadly never did). We observed the amazing Sistine Chapel entirely painted by hand primarily by Michelangelo between 1508 and 1512. After touring St. Peter's Basicalla, we fought the Roman heat and headed to the Pantheon for some lunch and a peek at the incredibly ancient church that was finally built by Hadrian in 126.

Ahhh, the Trevi Fountain.... 

As cheesy and cliche as it is, my favorite sight in Rome remains the Trevi Fountain. I can't explain why, it just makes me happy. Despite the wretched crowd and irritating street vendors, I was so excited to get back to the fountain. (I guess throwing a coin in the fountain really works!!) It's so grand and beautiful and I already want to go back there! Such a gorgeous sight. After the fountain we made our way over to the Spanish Steps and then indulged in some much needed, and delicious gelatto.

Saturday night, following another closed restaurant recommendation, we ended up in the Jewish Ghetto. We saw the Roman Synagogue, built in 1904, which is huge and quite lovely. It's right across the street from the river and near some amazing ancient ruins. There are several really great restaurants in the area (and they were open!) including kosher kitchens.

Rome is a very large,  face paced city and requires a lot of walking. We were all exhausted come Sunday so we opted to tour the modern art museum. We then took a leisurely stroll in the Borghesi park followed by slightly less than stellar lunch... After that we ran out of steam and spent the rest of the vacation just hanging out. It was nice to have some family time before heading back to Nussloch.

My family in front of unknown church

Italy, to me, is Paradise and Rome is an amazing place with history unlike any other place on earth. So many things in our daily life date back to the Roman era, it's really fascinating to think about. I am already looking forward to my next trip back to my lovely Italy- it cannot come soon enough!

Secrets of an Italian Chef

Sylvia creating her masterpiece

Earlier this week I realized one of my food dreams. Sylvia, a fellow  classmate, came over and prepared an authentic Italian dish for myself and another classmate, Nima. Sylvia, who is from Genova, Italy, cooked pasta with mushrooms, bacon and a light cream sauce. (YUM!) I observed while she cooked the scrumptious meal and learned a few secrets that she is allowing me to share.

1. Italians don't over-indulge in olive oil. When I cook, I use a hefty share of "EVOO," especially when preparing an Italian dish. In doing so, I was committing a cooking foul. Sylvia's secret is to let the natural juices of the ingredients provide their own oil and flavoring. She used no more than a tablespoon of oil for the entire meal. The calories saved were later spent on double chocolate cookies and cold, sparkling Mumm!

2. Parmesan does not make everything better. We didn't use any and we didn't miss it...

The finished product

3. Salt is your friend. Personally, I'm an extremely timid salt user and tend to shy away from its use at all. For Italians, salt is the secret to al dente perfecto pasta. The salt helps the water maintain it's heat while cooking the pasta and provides a subtle flavor to an otherwise bland noodle. The salt will also help release the natural flavor of the pasta. Don't be afraid to throw in the salt- and in this case, there is no such thing as too much.

4. Garlic can be over used. Justin and I LOVE garlic, but Sylvia is not a fan. For our dish she used one small, uncut clove, and disposed of it before we feasted. Honestly I didn't even notice the absence of garlic.

Nima enjoying the pasta

5. Stop and enjoy the food. Put down your iPhone and turn off the TV! Somewhere along the way, we Americans have lost the tradition of family dinners. These days we are so busy that we eat only for the sake of eating. For Italians, meals are used as meetings of friends and family. And the company is just as important as the food. They linger over dishes while enjoying the flavors of their meal and get lost in conversation. Food is a tool of joy.

In the words on Sylvia, food is gorgeous. Buen Apetito!