Tuesday, September 28, 2010

Oktoberfest 2010

If my memory serves me correctly, we had our Oktoberfest plans in place before we even had a housing assignment in Nussloch (see this post). We picked a great year to jump on the beer stein ship - it was the 200th anniversary! After countless email chains, thousands of miles traveled, Lederhosen and Dirndles purchased and strategy sessions, we finally found ourselves in the middle of the Hacker-Festzelt tent last Saturday. 

Oktoberfest takes place in Munich on the Theresienwiese and is often mistaken as a festival to celebrate the harvest. It was actually first a horse race to honor King Ludwig I of Bavaria before he wed Princess Therese of Saxe-Hildburghausen. It has been an annual tradition since, with some modifications to the celebration, and 24 years of cancellations due to plagues, economic issues and of course, wars. In the mid 1890's Albert Einstein helped install light bulbs in his uncle's tent at the event and beer was first served in the famous stein's in 1892.

Being the largest annual festival in the world with countless beer tents, going in with a plan is important. It is best to pick one, maybe two tents, and plan on staying put all day. Considerations that go into selecting a tent are the type of beer being poured, the food on the menu and the band. Unless you have a reserved box, it is imperative to arrive very early the day of to secure a seat at a table. Tents only hold about 100,000 people and each year the fair attracts around five million. Beer is not served to standing patrons, and being Germany, there is no room to bend the rules. 

We were fortunate to have a French group make room for us at their table when we arrived (they opened the tents early the day we went because it was raining out and even at 7:30 the tents were almost at capacity). Traditionally beer is not served until 10am, but due to the early start, beer started flowing at 9:00. At around 7-8% alcohol content, Oktoberfest beer is 2% stronger than regular beer (wow, that explains a lot!!) and one stein is the equivalent of three beers. 

Captures from Oktoberfest 
With all the visitors, there is money to be made by being a tent owner or even a server. The waiter positions are unique, in that there is no base pay, and all transactions are conducted in cash. The waiters buy the steins for €8.10 each from the bar, and sell them to their guests for €8.70.  Then there's tips. Although service is normally included in Germany and tips are rarely more than 5%, during Oktoberfest almost everyone rounds off to €10. After a few liters of 8% beer, people become pretty generous and jovial.

A waiter needs to be fit enough to carry literally thousands of steins, sometimes as many as 12 at once, over the course of a 12 hour shift. The reward: After three weeks of work, Oktoberfest waiters routinely make over €30k, or roughly $40k. These coveted positions are passed down through generations and are rarely up for grabs.

Needless to say, Oktoberfest was a huge success. Justin's sister Juli and her new fiance, Glenn, flew in from L.A. to attend, as well as four girls from Chicago, Rachel, Caitlin, Jamie and Kristin. It was so nice having familiar faces in Germany and sharing our Oktoberfest experience with friends and family.

To see all my pictures from the event, click here

Wednesday, September 22, 2010

Belgium

A change in plans lead us on an impromptu, 24 hour excursion to Brussels last weekend. 
Vespa storefront 
With no game plan or set itinerary, we were lucky enough to have Justin's friend Christina and her adorable son, Victor, show us around their city. Justin and I really loved the EU Capitol which has a Parisian feel and laid back style that reminded us of Chicago. Not having a million sights to take in was a welcomed change from our typical weekend abroad. 
Awesome Parisian inspired decor
As usual, we were anxious to check out the local cuisine. Thanks to spot on recommendations from Christina, we dined on two of our favorite meals since our time over here. Justin was very excited to have Coquillage, a large platter of of mullusks, and Moules Frites, a pot of mussels cooked in white wine served with fries (this specialty is only served in months containing an "r", and is best in months with "ber," ie September). Who knew Brussels is home to some of Europe's top restaurants?! 
Indulging in Coquillage at Toucan Brasserie
And of course we saved room for a Brussels waffle (aka Belgium waffle). It was everything I envisioned it to be! The one I devoured was lightly coated with sugar and syrup wasn't even an option.

Sunday afternoon we toured fancy chocolate shops which could have kept me entertained for hours. One of our favorites is Wittamer which has truffles that are to die for! With the extensive variety of decadent truffles and assorted chocolates, I think Belgium gets our chocolate vote... Sorry Switzerland!
Chowing on a waffle from a street vendor 
Jus and Victor hanging out
Justin and Victor became fast friends. I'm pretty sure it was partly because Justin was an eager supplier of sugar- cookies and ice cream! Victor jumped onto a stage in the middle of a busy shopping area and put on a dance performance after lunch Sunday afternoon. He is a big fan of Britain's Got Talent and got his inspiration from this act! It was hilarious!

We hope to make our way back to Belgium in the near future to visit our fantastic tour guides- and pick up some more truffles!

Friday, September 17, 2010

Prost Zwei (2)

Continuing from my last post on our wine filled weekend (this will be my last wine related post, promise!), my friend Nima invited me over to walk the vineyards near her house. I had been to her place several times before for a cup of her awesome coffee,  but I had no idea she lived next to gorgeous, rolling hills filled with vines about to be harvested. I was so glad I had my camera on hand to snap some shots:

Nima in her spectacular backyard
The tasty grapes (we picked up some that fell on the ground). 
The gorgeous hills
Some local wine I picked up at the grocery store. 3€ buys a liter

Wednesday, September 15, 2010

Prost and Salute!

Hard to believe a year has passed since we said I do! To celebrate, a weekend full of wine was in order. 

Friday we headed Southwest, about 30 minutes, to Bad Durkheim and to the Duerkheimer Wurstmarkt and "the largest wine festival in the world." Now, I'm not sure if this claim holds true, but I do know that they pour the largest glasses of wine ever! 2€ bought an enormous glass that was really a serving fit for a large, cold brew. The wine was surprisingly good as were the assorted delicacies such as the potato latkes with applesauce (Reibekuchen) and the wood fired pizza (flammkuchen-literally flame cake). See, not all German food revolves around sausage! The festival was a nice warm up for Oktoberfest, which we will be attending in just two weeks! 

wine "tasting" glass
Next up was France and the Burgundy wine region. The Saturday morning drive was splendid on a clear day with cool, crisp fall air, and bright green hills as far as the eye could see. We headed to Beaune, the wine capitol of the region, and browsed the local market. We sampled the flaky baguettes and famous Epoisses cheese aka "stinky cheese." This cheese was to die for and I definitely have smelled much worse. I could probably eat Epoisses everyday... After our appetizer, we headed to lunch where Justin ordered a three course meal in the sunny 80 degree weather. I had a delicious quiche Lorraine and watched in envy as he devoured his Burgundian beef with potatoes au gratin, snails and cheese plate

baguette and cheese! 

How cute is this French candy display?

Justin enjoying snails! 
We then moseyed over to our chateau for the night, Chateau de Chorey les Beaune. This bed and breakfast is run by Beniot Germain who inherited the castle first constructed in the 13th century. The Germain family also produces wines grown on their property, which we had the pleasure of tasting. The Chardonnay grape actually originated in the Burgundy region, and he had a very earthy version ready for us to taste.

Our chateau for the evening

Later we attended a Jazz festival and wine tasting of Ladoit, a local winery. An amazing quartet, Aymeric Descharrieres, performed and I was really impressed. The band is lead by a  Polish man who is incredibly talented and writes his own innovative music. I am not the biggest jazz fan, but truly appreciated his talent. 

Sunday, after a delightful French farm breakfast at the chateau, we made our way to Dijon, home of the mustardDijon is a really nice town surrounded by vineyards. There we saw the Palais de Ducs (Duke's Palace) and grabbed some delicious local pastry before heading off to Strasbourg.
Lovely Strasbourg canal 

Strausbourg is located in the Alsace region and is where my grandfather's father was from. Gorgeous hilly  countryside bordering the Black Forest surrounds the area. Strasbourg was such a cute city! The Old Town is surrounded by a canal with flowered bridges leading to the city. The massive Cathedral is quite a sight to see.

Then it was time for dinner... I try to keep an open mind when it comes to the local cuisine, but this was just too much to handle... Justin was set on having Choucroute, a French version of sauerkraut, potatoes, and pork. As if that doesn't sound gross enough, his plate came with a gruesome "bonus"of a piglet's jaw- teeth included thrown in for flavor. The elderly waitress proudly remarked that they had obtained the piglet from the butcher that morning and were using pieces to flavor and garnish all their Choucroute plates. Only in France!

Needless to say, the anniversary celebration was a success. I wonder where life will take us next year...

To see all of our weekend pictures click here

Wednesday, September 8, 2010

German Sugar Addiction

German bakeries are my weakness, and when I step inside, I lose control. Overhead dozen varieties of fantastic smelling breads are displayed begging to be devoured. Pretzels, rolls and speciality breads fill the counters and it takes every ounce to resist. But it's the pastry that really gets me. I simply cannot turn my back on the daily sweet selection and seasonal specialties.


Being the self proclaimed desert connoisseur that I am, I feel it is my duty to educate those back home about this country's semi-hidden talent (Black Forest Cake is just the tip of the iceberg). Considering the stiff competition from Germany's "A-list" neighbors, it is no wonder their secret hasn't traveled far. So I thought I should do a post to get the word out, but first I had some serious research to do. Below are some of my study materials: 
Berry Meringue Pie 
Plum Cake (way tastier than it looks!)
Apple Cake (to celebrate the New Year German style)
Banana Chocolate Brownie Cake